Two places on the journey over are worth particular mention. In line with most settlements in the area, they were both affected by the terrible earthquake of 2009. L’Aquila was at the epicentre. 35 to 37 thousand people were made homeless & over 100,000 buildings destroyed. 309 people died, many children, & there were over 1500 casualties when the ‘quake hit in the early hours of the 6th April.

Today, there remains ample if evidence of this night. High cranes still dominate the skyline, giant preying mantises overhang scaffolded medieval buildings, Some appear pristine with freshly painted plaster coating reconstructed facades to the public, especially around the newly laid Piazza di Duomo, & others like the cathedral itself are just an empty shell of destruction.

Despite the renovation of many, much still remains to be done with hundreds of ancient buildings held up by stout timbers or thick, metal frames. Despite this, or maybe because of it, L’Aquila remains a fascination place to visit.

An important medieval town, within ancient walls, it has been an important centre for hundreds of years & is now the capital of the region. The Fountain of 99 Spouts, built in the 13th century, represented the number of powerful houses & estates in the area at the time.

It was chosen as the 2026 Centre of Culture in recognition of its cultural & historical importance. A university town, it has an exciting buzz to it after dark. With piazzas & streets echoing with laughter & conversation.

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is like chalk to L’Aquila’s cheese. A tiny village clinging to the crags & qcliffs of the Grand Sasso d’Italia, it is ancient in every respect but for the yellow framework of tall cranes performing similar work on devastated buildings. Nevertheless, it’s narrow, cobbled alleyways, scratching darkened routes around ancient stones, studded doorways & shuttered windows, give it a real medieval feel. Everything is in miniature, from the church to the café, from the tiny, dark gift shops to the small grocers & verandered restaurant. A special place with a special, timeless feel.