A stormy night & trouble in the high seas

Capt Steve anchors up in bay around from small village. We have a confrontation with an American who thinks we a bit close. Means Chris has to move our long line & makes us late. Huh! Again we dingy across to walk to village to eat & return in the darkness just beating a colossul thunder & lightening storm and beating rain.

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The morning finds rough seas & overcast skies. We make our way out of shelter to find big, yes big, waves – bit like fairground ride. 40 mins out an engine stops. We limp to port & call out the mechanic Stephanos & his local buddy who get the ferry over & who arrive several hours later to hum & ha and then replace the fan belt while we have show down with a rather enormous car ferry.

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Our day is rescued by the lovely Liana at the cafe Aramis. Iced coffees to die for and wonderful pork & prunes made by mama.

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The male crew pose for pics – more at play than at work. Downtime is required. Sorry about shirt in middle – rather let side down.

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Anchor girl shows off her crew

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Rousoumi

The wonderful hilltop village of Rousoumi. Destroyed by an earthquake and then rebuilt. A very trendy, rather hippyish community with loads of restaurants, cafes & grockle shops with classy goods. 20140607154408_IMG_0191

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And my favourite!

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Long lines to shore

2 days without wifi so a summary of the days is very easy. Sailing, anchor up for lunch in a bay, sail a bit further and on these days Chris takes rope in mouth, swims to shore & ties us up to sway gently between knot & anchor.

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The view of the restaurant where we had yet another ‘ traditional Greek ‘ meal and of the boat from the restaurant.

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That’s us bobbing,ney swaying in the front, with subtle sunset behind. The meal was a bit iffy but reasonable red wine, rather sweet, for 6 Euros a litre. This grows between the five of us until the Croatian group next door get us over for a very bad dance to very ify music. The journey back to the boat in the dingy is even more hazardous in the dark.

It has been requested by some of you, well one, that I prove that I am here and I do do stuff. One image of me at wheel.

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Once all the mewing about stuff is done & sails are up & we are motoring I go up the flat front, stick my headphones in and start the learning process with my words for the 16 songs I have to learn in 3 weeks as the horizon passes. Lucy, hope you proud of me.

 

 

 

Messing about in boats

We sail across the bay to a deserted island, moor in Monastery Bay, tho no monastery for several centuries. The dingy is off loaded & we mess about a bit as you do. Then back to port for dinner. 80 boats arriving morrow for regatta so we off early. 20140606073725_IMG_0046 20140606074337_IMG_0050

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The sun shines again on Steni Vela

Yay! The sun comes out. A beautiful morning with blue skies and a good breeze. Still no way to get off so we set sail straight away, hoist the main sail and the jib and off we go across the bay. We make eight knots at one point. I take the wheel and we head for a small cove for lunch. Yes, I said I take the wheel.

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The cove has a single small olive farm on each side. Some of us even swm ( not me- too fresh!)

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We move across to moor up at the small harbour of Steni Vala – a collection of 3/4 restaurants/bars and a few houses behind.

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Refreshments in the bar include iced coffee & beer. A short stroll over the hill by the small church to a deserted pebbled bay before G & T and dinner. 1st time in 48 hours Chris & Denyse have been on dry land.

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British weather on Alonnisos

This all comes as a bit of a shock. Yesterday statred with clear blue skies and we set off to sail east in brisk wind. The jib goes up, the main sail goes up and we tack a couple of times heading for the island of Alonnisos making 7 knots. It is then that the weather breaks-grey skies & then rain.

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Are we happy – oh, yes, sailing is fun.

Through the rain we power on to port and tie up. Here we find two problems as well as the rain which will go on for 24 hours.

Problem 1 is the unpredictable surge which sends the boats backwards & forwards between anchor & quayside ropes. All very manageable for skipper Steve & crew.

Problem 2 is the fact that the quayside is about a metre above our rear deck which effectively means we are marooned on board & unable to get off without taking one’s life in one’s hands by sliding up an 80degree slippery wooden plank one way and then guaging when the swell will bring the boat within jumping distance to get back on board. As there is a force 6 wind outside the harbour we stay put overnight and all the following day. Some of try the plank of death to go shopping and ablute in local cafes. For others is a leap too far and they spend 36 hours watching the humans as they walk past.

After 24 hours it stops raining but sadly no sun comes out. We manage to get three off for suplies and to skank the wifi code from the cafe oposite. It is sporadic & to keep connected you have to be out in the elements and wave the tablet over your head. Hopefully all will settle down for tomorrow.

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Sailing to Agnondis

Just a few mile down the coast we nestle in the small bay of Agnondis. We have lunch tied to the rocky shore and when the wind changes we move over to the quayside. Some sailing photos 20140602082459_IMG_9889   20140602082110_IMG_9882 20140602081851_IMG_9874 20140602091124_IMG_9910 We cross to the for coffee & later dinner at this small restaurant. 20140602131055_IMG_9920   Can you see us tied up in the background? 20140602131429_IMG_9926

A day in town

The wind was blowing a bit this morning so decided,thankfully, to stay in harbour. After breakfast of bacon & eggs we get the bus around the island to Skopelos Town. Maybe we would find Pierres & Meryl there. Sadly no but did find a proper Greek looking church & some quaint narrow streets and bustling harbour. In fact found lots of little churches all spread about the town.

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The stray cats on their way home after a hard day in the bins.

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Locals at work and play.

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À short sail to Skopulos

All hands on deck to undo ropes, start engines, leave port and set sail in the sunshine. Sorry, I lack the nautical lingo but will make every attempt to include it as I pick it up. I heave up a couple of fenders, those balloon type things along the side, and I untie them (impressed!). Off into the Aegean and navigate a course through the islands. After a couple of hours arrive here in Skolos. 20140531103426_IMG_9715

This is the island where they shot Mama Mia. Yes,really. Having tied up we explore Loutraki looking for Meryll Streep, those steps & the church. We find lots & lots of steps. Some of us give employment to local taxi drivers for the tortuous journey up & down to the top of the village. Couldn’t find the church; found lots of steps tho. No sign of Colin or Pierres nor allthose sexy girls. 20140531131859_IMG_9760

Only locals relaxing & playing cards.

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Evidence of hard fishing!

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Hello Greece

Arrived in Skathioss last night. Now preparing the boat & collecting supplies for two weeks around Aegean with good friends Lynn & Steve and Chris & Denise..

Skathios:

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Here is the boat – sorry, catermaran. It’s huge. Four cabins, 2 in each hull. And that is captain Steve fiddling about with his ropes – a essential skill. I am told and one I will have to learn if we are not to loose fenders. Yes, it has proper sails!

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See you when I can find WiFi.

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Early ferry across the Bay of Naples to Napoli

Have a quick espresso while waiting for the midday ferry at the port at Sorrento

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What an ancient city Naples is! ! Full of narrow, haunting streets, full of history & stories. From the sea, domes and crosses compete with tall, elegant, apartment buildings, those flaking & crumbling in juxta position to renovated classy restaurants & shops, for sky space. Layers of muted coloured buildings, all between four & seven stories high, stretch up the hills around the harbour.

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A walk around the corner and crowds are watching power boat race around the bay. A real spectacle.

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I cannot say goodbye to Naples without leaving you with an image of Vesuvius!

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Hotel Riccardo Francischiello

Some images of the hotel – highly recommended in all aspects. Good inexpensive but high quality restaurant, friendly, helpful staff, wonderful roof top pool and scenery to die for overlooking the island of Capri.

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Local buses to Nerano Cantone

A few more images of Sorrento.

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From Sorrento buses dash around narrow windy lanes hugging the coast or clinging to hillsides. The driver eats a choc ice in one hand and steers & blasts horn at every bend with other. Then he sorts out his headphones!

Two local buses, change at San Agata, takes you through Termini to the stoney beach at Nerano. Plush hotels & restaurants hug a small bay of pebbles and stones shadowed by tall cliffs at each end.

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Amongst the sunseekers and sun loungers some locals still find time to work & fish.

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Hello Italy

Just an hour down the coast from Naples – the coastline jewel around Sorrento.

The view of Capri from the hotel. It’s the same from the balcony that greets the morning as the shutters open.

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Sunset last night over the Bay of Naples & over the island of Ischia.

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Sorrento.

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Goodbye Maldives

Last night we cruised into Male, passed the airport terminal and moored about 30 minutes away.

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In the morning, we have our breakfast, move to the quay right outside the terminal with trolleys on the quayside and say goodbye to the crew.

There’s the room boy Ahmed – nice hair!!

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The waiter Assadh who kept an eye on me from the inflatable cause my mask kept leaking when in the water – nice eyes, eh?!!

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Bablu the cook, from Bangladesh, who worked wonders in his little galley – the one with the white T shirt.

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And Captain Laray

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And this was our route –

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Snorkling at Embudhoo Reef

Leaving Fulidhoo we start to make our way back to Male. On the way we meet up with & snorkle alongside 3 manta rays like huge beating carpets  & a large pod of dolphins who are clever enough to lead us on a merry chase around the boats.

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The Embudhoo reef & sandbank was a bit scarey. Whilst some snorkled along the reef a group of us were off loaded from the small boats to explore the small sandbank for an hour. The single feature was this 2 metre high cone of dead coral. From the sandbank 3 reef sharks were spotted gently swimming around about 3 metres from shore. Each was about 3 metres in length. Needless to say none of us chose to go into the water at this juncture.

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An evening in Maduvvari

After a day spent eating & cruising & snorkling, as dusk approaches, we anchor beside a large inhabited island called Maduvvari with school, police station, magistrate’s court, mosque and a population of 1,000 or so people. By large I mean it takes 15 minutes maximum to walk very slowly around the island.

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Not a lot to do here but sit around & pass the time of day – husbands with wives, men with men, women with women, children with children & mothers, boys with boys and girls with girls.

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And the high spot – watch the sunset:

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Dolphins & sting rays

I wake up to watch local snorkling fishermen at work in the dawn sunlight. A spotter goes down and raises his arm when he spots fish. The other four each grab a corner of a square net and swim around the shoal and drag it to their open backed boat and its contents are hauled on board.

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After breakfast we are on our way across turquoise coral seas surrounded by darker reefs and the wider blue of the deeper ocean. The Maldives consists of 12 or so atolls. These are separated by channels of open ocean with proper surf. Atolls are like cut off mountain/volcano tops and vary in size but can be up to 10/20 miles across. Around the circumference (a maths’ term) are dotted up to 100 or so islands which vary in size from sandbars which may just protrude above the surface or are hidden underneath & only given away by the turquoise water which covers it and allows the lightness of the coral sands to show through, to small unihabited islands with a few scruffy trees/bushes, to larger inhabited islands that take all of 10 minutes to walk across, where a small village may be rooted in the middle.

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On a private sandbar a game of cricket takes place. Is Lords like this? What a grand seat to watch the game from. They kept losing the ball though!!

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During the morning we follow a small pod of dolphins.

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In the afternoon snorkle 3 giant sting rays are spotted on the sands beneath the boat.

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We stop that night beside, you guessed it, another unihabited island! Just peace, quiet and the gentle motion of the boat in a small swell (another nautical term!!).

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The boat – my home for a week

Well two boats actually, one with 6 people the other with 10, both with crews of four. You’ll see lots of pics of the other boat at sea as it is rather difficult to take photos of own boat in its entirety. For instance here is our sister ship arriving at our first night’s mooring beside an inhabited island called Gulhi on South Male Atoll

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My lovely little cabin.

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Looking into the galley (sailing term for kitchen!!) from the table where we eat.

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Of course we all need masks, snorkles & flippers.

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Having spent a day snorkling and cruising & cruising and snorkling, we come up to a sand bank in the middle of nowhere with nothing on it but a very trendy sculpture made of drift wood – 30 paces long! (the sandbank that is). Yes, we drop anchor, snorkle, eat dinner, do some night fishing and watch the sunset before settling down for our second night on the high seas with no sign of land in any direction.

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Have snitched these as I did not have an underwater camera and I saw them all.

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Line caught tuna & a Jack fish were landed & consumed later in the week.

 

 

Hello Maldives

With no wifi (but surprisingly mobile phone reception in the middle of the Indian ocean many miles from land) this part of the blog is retrospective and all took place last week.

A short flight from Colombo to Male, the capital, takes me to the Maldives. The airport is perched on one island. Immediately outside the airport there are water buses to wizz passengers across the waterways to the main island a bit like a far eastern Venice. A night in a hotel and then a morning to explore the small, bustling centre of this muslim country – fish markets, vegetable markets, stores loaded onto boats from stores, water buses, freight barges, speed boats, luxury cruisers & diving vessels.

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Water buses moor up before passengers cram in along with boxes, cases, bundles & crates – oh and the 3 guys who ride their motorbikes down the gang plank and park them at the end of the bus behind the seats.

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Then off by water bus to a jetty where we transfer to our boat. The luggage goes first in the inflatable.

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Then we set off and cruise for a couple of hours to our first night’s stop.

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Goodbye Sri Lanka

My last day in this wonderful country. A 30 minute tuk tuk ride to Wagamama? Beach- a palm lined crescent of golden sands facing turquoise seas. Few hours basking & swimming before we choose our fish for lunch-a huge jack fish which was caught 30 minutes earlier, at least 75 cm long, then grilled. Heaven. Owner has a mate who brings over his boat & we go out fishing for am hour. Can’t flag down tuk tuks for return journey so another mate turns up in small van with vast speakers in back. We place plastic chairs in back & it feels like carnival with a sub woofer the size of an oven.

No photos, sorry. Only took small camera. You’ll have to image it all through my words!

But I will leave you with a collection of images that reflect the character of the Sri Lanken people.

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This time am going on a whale hunt

Say no more – blue whales & dolphins.

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Then to Galle & a walk around this huge Portuguese fort & watching cricket in the old square.

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Got to introduce this character. He proudly shows off his tricycle which given him for work he does at the mosque as caretaker and also the voice to call Muslims to prayer every morning. It was made by the Dutch many moons ago.

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He is 86!

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Down from the hills to the heat of the coast

On the way we met some interesting characters. This guy was boiling up maize & selling fresh mango.

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These huge Buddhas were really impressive, carved out of the solid granite of the cliff face.

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A golden Buddha looks out to protect the village.

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But these guys took the biscuit. What a way to fish!

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Nuwara Eliya to Bandarawela by train

A wonderful train ride through the tea plantations starts, as with most train journeys, a little bit late.

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So when the train is late one goes to the local hostelry for refreshments.

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Clientele a bit iffy especially these characters.

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The train eventually arrives, over crowded due to new celebrations. Thankfully a few able to get off to allow a bit of space for those getting on. This is most effective method to get your family off.

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I’ve always wanted to hang out the open door on one of these crowded local trains. I sat on the doorway and watched the plantations & small stations roll by while chaos ensued behind me.

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We arrive at our destination and spoon ourselves onto the platform.

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April 14th-an auspicious day

firecrackers and barking dogs,pipes and singing mark the arrival of new year- oh and Mark’s birthday. Things quieten down about three and dawn arrives with only sporadic thunder flash explosions. The lads start a quick game while families prepare breakfast.

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At 10.16 fires are lit in homes as the most auspicious time to boil the coconut milk. If it boils over then all will have good luck in the coming yrar. Yes it did and so Mark will.

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Hindu families come out to welcome their gods through each village; some are more enthusiastic than others as the proceedings start.

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Mark joins in the festivities knowing that this new year & Mark’s birthday coincide with the new moon so there must be a really big bash. Sadly no – in Sri Lanka alcohol cannot be sold on night of full moon. No wonder all look so glum.

 

 

Up into the hills to Kandy

But first, following a climb of 1002 steps to the top of the king’s citadel, a drive through spice alley experiencing rural everyday life as we travel.

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Someone has to carve & paint all those elephants!

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The ‘commercial centre’ of Sri Lanka; or a large market working 24 hours. Lories & vans queue to get in & the boys are there to load up.

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A Hindu temple- coming up to New Year! April 14 the every year.  How auspicious.

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I can’t leave without a Buddhist ceremony- the walk past of Buddha’s tooth

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I’m going on an elephant hunt!

But first a stupa( where would you be without a stupa) and a wonderful temple ruin with Budha overlooking what’s left.

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This one is 50 metres high!

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Lunch with a local family

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And here are the elephants

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I like this view with mountains in the background.

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Another day of Buddhas

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This one is carved of solid rock. The flags fly at all Buddhist temples, shrines, stupas. The colours represent aspects of Buddhism. Red represents wisdom – find the others.

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A real, live monk!

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Behind the white facade are five temple caves each of which is home to 100s of statues and painted Buddhas.

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And this big fella looks after it all at the bottom of the hill

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Now the rains come & brilliant lightening storm. G&T tonight!

Anuradhapura – stupas, steps & statues

Breakfast by the lake – a cool, glorious morning for us to explore & the local monkey gang to set off on their Triumphs.

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Today is all about Buddha arriving imn Sri Lanka. I’ll try get it right!

Having visited the sacred Bo-Tree,2,200 years old we go to Ruvanvalisaya Dagoba stupa- a shrine for monks and the man’s remains.

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They clean the plaster dome very three weeks swinging around it on this ladder:

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The highest stupa was over 100 metres high although the top is off it now.

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To reach Mihintale where the monk Arahath prayed & converted locals you have to climb 1000 odd steps. Here he is at the top in his teaching pose.

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Then the pre monsoon storm comes early and a retreat is beaten to the veranda to watch the lightening through the sheets of rain. Oh, accompanied by tea, of course!

Nogombo fish market

Don’t believe all I write on here~yesterday was not Palm Sunday just some Catholicy service and it was a pretty monsoon storm that seems to occur every day during late afternoon.

Anyway, some images from the dried & fresh fish market. You can smell it from the UK!

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Hello Sri Lanka

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It’s Sunday in Negumbo. Boys play cricket on the beach as families gather for Palm Sunday service

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The lads Show off in Indian Ocean surf until afternoon monsoon rains come along. Only adds to their anticipation. While families pray under umbrellas the boys gather in bars to watch T 20 final against India.

Lake Victoria & The River Nile

The Source of the Nile – yes, really. One is the actual source of the Nile, and the other is the Source Bar (as opposed to the Source Cafe in town)

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Find the common element at Bujagali Falls???? Sadly, now flooded by the building of the dam further downstream.

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Rafting – yes we did this & survived. Guess who is in the water – and one of us lost their hat.

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Ferries across the lake

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Main Street, Jinja

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And the market, just off Main Street

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But sadly, no pictures of The Source Cafe – which, arguably, serves the best espresso & iced coffee in sub Saharan Africa