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Having explored the main tourist route with its incredible line of imposing buildings, fountains & springs, squares, palaces, galleries, museums, and adventured into the mazed grid that makes up the Arab/Spanish & Jewish Quarters, it is time to explore around the edge of this historic island – a route of about 3km.

Progressing clockwise, the turquoise waters of the ocean are always to the left, the high-rising temperatures deceptively cooled by off-water breezes. On the right, weathered facades blankly face the centuries of storms & battling ships, reflecting the character of the neighbourhoods that shelter behind these protective shells.

Castello Mariace is at the southern-most tip of the island. Here the route turns for home along the bars & cafes on the raised promenade.

At the Spring of Aretusa, the Grand Hotel stands imperial above the new construction work taking place down on the water. This leads in a wide walkway along moorings designed for yachts, small liners & supercritical until more normal folk sort out their nets, bookings for their island cruises and boat hires.