So it’s a return to my beloved Italy and, for the first week, chilling it in the hills overlooking Lake Garda itself. Up here, a gentle breeze whispers across the skin, reminding you where you are and to let the eyes & ears do all the work.

Salo is a small lakeside town that epitomises the classic Italian Lakes tour. June is the time of year to indulge yourself & come away to the lakeshore where coniferred hill ranges contour down to a sharp edged line around the clear waters. There are few crowds, eating & drinking is easy with no need to book & Garda’s ferries provide easy access around the ancient towns & villages that dip their quayside toes into the clear, fish-strewn waters.

Main problem has been to find dinner this evening. Having looked at menus up and down the front, this is it:

Now to decide between braised donkey (!!!) or lake sardines. I’ll let you know.

I’ll let Salo show off its character, accompanied by the few visitors that have slipped the cordon and arrived on foot, bicycle, car or boat.