Possession of Berwick-upon-Tweed has passed between England and Scotland on at least a dozen occasions over the centuries, the last being in 1482. Its medieval walls, Elizabethan ramparts and 18th century barracks reflect its strategic importance during frequent border wars between the two countries. However, do not seek refuge in the town on a wet, cold autumn-feeling day, for there is little to raise your spirits beyond these ancient, military walls & defences. Indeed the high Street seems to have given up the fight to bring a bit of colour to families of damp, weary holidaymakers trying to find some shelter from the elements.

The border between the two countries runs from the North Sea coast just above Berwick-upon-Tweed, south west across the River Tweed near Paxton House, a grand Georgian mansion that is open to the public. This is the first chain link suspension bridge in Europe, built in 1820, for horse & carts and later modified for motorised vehicles.

Once in Scotland, the coast road meanders along the clifftop through open, golden, shave-harvested fields and lush, purple-speckled hedgerows, with ocean blue to the distant right flushing up to join the assorted greys above. In places, the road drops down from caravanned headands to busy harbours or sandy beaches. The first is Eyemouth where the harbour has been redeveloped along the estuary to include a wharf for working boats but also bars, cafes & eateries catering for visitors and holidaymakers.

Coldingham village is a mile or so away from its cove where multi-generational families enjoy the sands and the Beach Cafe (called, unsurpringly, the ‘Beach Cafe’!). Children splash the waves, dads score centuries in games of beach cricket, grandads show off keepy-uppies and their dribbling skills against giggling children. A few trepid surfers ride the waves and clusters of children scrape the beach with their body boards.

The road struggles up the hill to peak at the brow. Below, picturesque St Abbs collects around a number of quays & wharves, divided by stone walls & jetties. Klinkered rocks jaw around the numerous harbours, ready to snap up fishing vessels and paraphernalia.