The last day exploring Croatia’s Adriatic coast above Trogir proved rather disappointing. Trogir itself was lovely during the week – atmospheric, great ambiance, history and tourism coming together in harmony and complementing each other. As the weekend approached this seemed to become swamped. The streets became full, with loud crowds of youthful groups pushing their way through, searching for music, partying and a good time. The mini cruises offloaded their guests and the many sailing flotillas on the other side of the water filled the quay there all the way down, moored 6/7/8 abreast. So, it was time to get out and remind ourselves what the real Croatia felt like. If only …….

Further up the coast, a number of small fishing villages dot the shore, just off the recently improved coastal road – fresh tarmac and pristine white lines. Rogoznica is one just village which seems to be representative of all the others but at least it still retains a heart in the form of a small fishing fleet and a large yacht marina.

It’s as if developers have identified the original village as an ideal spot for creating a tourist centre. The old cottages have been converted into villas, new holiday apartments have been built within the old centre and the watersde has been given a spanking bright promenade and quay lined by bars and restaurants to bind it all together. The presence of the fishing fleet at least allows the place to retain a small bit of character and an element of charm within the local landscape.

From a distance, Primosten appears to be another wonderful example of an historic fishing village.

Once onto the clean, modern quayside that lines the narrow limestone klinker beach, one gets the feeling of what this island village will be like.

It feels like the streets will be full of character and fishing cottages. But again, the resort has a freshly whitewashed and mortared feel to it. A few old cottages house a few crafty shops and converted holiday dwellings, while sharp rectangular new builds have been constructed in between for tourist apartments & hotels. These spread around the ragged cliffs, where their occupants perch out on the rocks and outcrops to find a place to lie out or access the water.

The opposite beach is a lined arrangement of sunbeds and umbrellas which would put legions of Roman cohorts to shame!

A wide stone/cement walkway meanders, dipping and diving, around the island along the cliffs. Once out of the resort itself the path becomes a bit wilder. An odd cove appears or a classy restaurant, perched high above the surf below. It’s not far before the path flattens out and eateries fill the available space again.

One can only hope that as time passes, such resorts will weather and begin to harmonise with their historical context so such settlements can fulfil their full potential as successful holiday destinations. This may well be possible, if the holiday companies allow it to happen. Good luck, Croatia.